Please always refer first to the manufacturer's care instructions, which may be supplied with your piece of furniture.

CARING FOR AND CLEANING GARDEN FURNITURE 

It is advisable to store garden furniture in an unheated room or on a covered balcony during winter. If this is not possible, the furniture should be covered with a suitable cover that allows air circulation. Please note that water droplets can act as "magnifying glasses," through which the sun's rays can damage the surface of your garden furniture. Therefore, remove any water droplets from the last rain or position your furniture so that water can run off. 

TIPS FOR CARING FOR TEAK WOOD 

Teak is a heavy, hard wood with a high natural oil content, making garden furniture very weather-resistant. By applying teak oil, you can preserve the wood's original color, which would otherwise turn silvery-gray over time.  

DAILY CLEANING AND REGULAR CARE 

If you treat your furniture with teak oil, you can clean it regularly with a well-wrung cloth dipped in soapy water. Then wipe with a dry cloth. If your garden furniture is left untreated, it is sufficient to carry out the same treatment at least once a year.  

Initially, the wood fibers may stand up after treatment. In this case, sand the entire piece of furniture again with a sanding sponge or sandpaper. Always sand in the direction of the wood fibers, i.e. parallel to the grain. After sanding, the piece of furniture should be treated again.

TIPS FOR THE CARE OF PLASTIC

Garden furniture is available in various plastic materials that are very weather-resistant. However, all materials, even UV-protected ones, fade over time when exposed to intense sunlight.

DAILY CLEANING AND REGULAR CARE

Despite the weather resistance of plastic, it should not be forgotten that garden furniture is left outside and is exposed to dirty rainwater, bird droppings, leaves, pollen and berries. Garden furniture should be cleaned regularly with a soft brush or sponge with water and a little washing-up liquid before stains that are almost impossible to remove appear.

Please always refer first to the manufacturer's care instructions, which may be supplied with your piece of furniture.

CLEAN GLASS PROPERLY

TIPS FOR THE DAILY CLEANING OF GLASS

• It is often sufficient to wash the glass with clear water. Use a sponge or a soft, lint-free cloth.

• Always clean glass surfaces completely instead of just wiping individual areas.

• Use a standard glass cleaner to remove grease (e.g., fingerprints). Dry off any excess water with a sponge or cloth. You can then polish the glass with a microfiber cloth.

• If water remains on glass surfaces for a long time and evaporates, limescale stains will form. It is therefore always advisable to wipe the surface dry immediately. Limescale deposits can be removed with a mild vinegar solution.

Attention!

• Do not use abrasive, corrosive, or alkaline cleaning agents, as these can damage the glass and leave scratches!

• Moving objects with rough undersides on a glass plate can cause scratches that cannot be removed.

Please always refer first to the manufacturer's care instructions, which may be supplied with your piece of furniture.

CLEANING WOODEN FURNITURE

Wood remains a living material even after the tree has been felled. Humidity, light, and temperature continue to affect the wood. Wood absorbs or releases moisture depending on its environment. It therefore expands during humid periods and contracts during dry periods. When wood „works“ in this way, the transition between different solid wood parts can be observed. Solid table tops can quickly develop slight bends or visible „wind cracks,“ which are narrow cracks between the grains, but these have no significance for durability. The cracks usually close again on their own.

Furniture made from certain types of wood may show significant color changes as soon as it is removed from its packaging. This change process is activated by exposure to sunlight. The more the furniture is exposed to the sun, the faster its color will change. If you want to slow down this process, you must protect it from direct sunlight after use. You can avoid „stains“ by not placing any objects on the surface of the wooden furniture for the first few months.

CARE OF SOAPED WOODEN FURNITURE

Solid wood tables that have been varnished or soaped are effectively protected. Regular maintenance is easy to carry out and ensures a long service life. For best results, treat your new table with furniture soap before using it and repeat the treatment every four to six weeks, depending on where the furniture is placed and how it is used. Regular re-treatment increases the natural resistance of the wood.

Daily cleaning

For daily care, use a clean, soft cloth that you dip in lukewarm water and wring out well.

Attention!

• Do not use detergents, cleaning agents or chemicals to clean leached furniture! Do not use steel wool as a cleaning tool!

• Do not place steel objects on oak furniture for long periods of time. Steel will react with the oak and leave dark stains, which can only be removed by sanding.

Regular care

1. before applying the soapy water, lightly sand the surface of the furniture in the direction of the wood grain with a sanding sponge (which is available in the packaging when you buy your care products from us).

2. shake the bottle with the soapy water and then apply it to the entire piece of furniture with a dry cloth or sponge in the direction of the wood grain. When lyeing a wooden table, it is important to also treat the underside of the table top as well as the legs and edges in order to achieve even moistening and drying of the wooden surfaces. An uneven distribution of moisture in the wood can, in the worst case, lead to the formation of cracks and deformations in the furniture.

3. wait about 10 minutes after the treatment.

4. to remove the soap suds residue, wipe the table with a clean sponge or cloth that you have dipped in hot water and wrung out well.

5. then allow the furniture to dry thoroughly. After the first treatment with the soapy water, the wood fibers may partially stand up. In this case, sand the entire piece of furniture again with a sanding sponge or sandpaper (grain size 180 or 240). Always sand in the direction of the wood fibers, i.e. parallel to the grain. After sanding, it is necessary to treat the piece of furniture again with soapy water.

Attention!

• When treating oak furniture, the soap content in the lye must not be very high, otherwise the soap may react chemically with the tannic acid in the wood and stain it dark.

Soap for cleaning wood is available directly from us.

CARE OF OILED WOODEN FURNITURE

Oiled solid wood furniture is permanently protected. Regular care is easy to carry out and preserves the wooden furniture for a lifetime. For best results, treat your furniture with oil two to four times a year.

Attention!

Do not use any cleaning agents or chemicals to clean the furniture!

Regular care

1. first clean the entire table with a clean cloth that has been dipped in hot water and wrung out. Then allow the table to dry.

2. before applying the oil: lightly sand the surface of the furniture with a sanding sponge.

3. then apply the maintenance oil with a clean white cloth or sponge. Never pour the oil directly onto the wood. Apply the oil in the direction of the wood grain in an even, thin layer. It is important that you treat all surfaces of the furniture. The cut edges of the wood must be treated particularly frequently during the dry season (winter) to prevent drying out and cracking.

4. leave the oil to work for about two hours and then remove any oil residue with a clean, dry cloth. If there are any cracks in the tabletop, you can remove them by carefully sanding it. To do this, use a sanding sponge or fine sandpaper with 240 grit. It is important that you follow the alignment of the wood fibers, i.e. sand parallel to the grain. If you buy additional sanding sponges, these should have a grain size of at least 180.

5 After each sanding, wipe the table with a clean, dry cloth to remove any dust residue. Then treat the furniture with oil as described above.

Attention!

• In the worst case, uneven distribution of moisture in the wood can lead to the formation of cracks and deformation of the table top. We therefore recommend that both the Treat and care for the top and underside in the same way.

• Please note that cloths and sponges soaked in oil can ignite spontaneously. They must therefore be airtight metal or glass containers and disposed of in the same way. Oil should never be poured into waste water.

STAIN REMOVAL AND DAMAGE REPAIR ON OILED AND SOAPED SURFACES

Red wine, fat and oil

• The best way to remove stains from red wine, grease or oil is to lightly rub the stain with a sponge soaked in oil or soap solution (depending on how the surface has been treated). If the stain has been absorbed by the surface, use sandpaper (first with 180 grit and then with 220 grit) to remove it. Make sure that there is no „dent“ by sanding only or too hard where the stain is. It is best to sand the entire surface evenly. The surface must then be treated again.

Wax

• Wax stains can be carefully scraped away without damaging the surface. Then treat the stains with a little oil or soap.

Colored pencils and watercolors

• Stains from colored pencils and watercolors are best soaked up first with the help of blotting paper and then removed with alcohol.

Ink

• First try to soak up ink stains with absorbent paper. If this does not work, use a soft brush, a little water and mild detergent. In any case, be careful not to use too much water when cleaning wood. If this is not enough, try using alcohol or benzene afterwards. Finally, you can sand the stain. Use fine sandpaper (240 - 320 grit). To avoid dents, sand a larger area or the entire surface. Finally, the surface must be treated again with oil or soap.

Dents and scratches

• Dents and scratches can often be repaired as long as the wood fibers are not broken. Apply a little lukewarm water to the area with a soft brush. This will lift the wood. As soon as it is dry again, you can sand it again with fine sandpaper and treat it with oil or soap.

LACQUERED WOODEN FURNITURE

Exposure to light changes the surface of lacquered wooden furniture less than the surface of leached or oiled furniture. However, the coloration of lacquered furniture also changes over time. We therefore recommend placing bowls, candlesticks and other objects on it with care.

Daily cleaning

For daily care, wipe the tabletop with a soft cloth that has been dipped in clean, lukewarm water and wrung out well.

Regular care

Lacquered wood veneers can be made more resistant to scratches by treating the furniture with a high-quality car wax.

Attention!

• Do not use cleaning agents and other chemicals for maintenance.

Please always refer first to the manufacturer's care instructions, which may be supplied with your piece of furniture.

CLEANING OF COMPOSITE TABLE TOPS

Clean the surface with a dry or slightly damp cloth. Stains can be removed using a solution of water and universal cleaner. Stubborn stains can also be cleaned with concentrated universal cleaner. Then wash the surface with water and dry it with a cloth.

Please always refer first to the manufacturer's care instructions, which may be supplied with your piece of furniture.

CLEAN AND CARE FOR LAMINATE

Daily cleaning of laminate surfaces can be done with a cloth dipped in water and universal cleaner. Rinse with clean water and dry the surface with a cloth. For particularly stubborn stains, organic solvents such as white spirit, white spirit and acetone can be used carefully, depending on the nature of the stain. You can also use a laminate cleaner for daily care. 

Attention!

• Never use steel wool, scouring pads, scouring milk and the like on laminate, as these can easily leave light-colored stains where they have been used.

Buy laminate care products from our store.

Stain removal

Most stains can be removed with either a universal cleaner or benzene. Chewing gum can be removed by first freezing the stain with dry ice or ice in a plastic bag and then carefully scraping it away.

CLEAN AND CARE FOR FENIX LAMINATE

Fenix laminate is also very easy to clean and maintain. Please read the general care and maintenance instructions here. Or take a look at the following films to find out how best to remove stains and even cracks from Fenix laminate.

Please always refer first to the manufacturer's care instructions, which may be supplied with your piece of furniture.

LEATHER CARE AND LEATHER CLEANING

ANILINE LEATHER

Clean your aniline leather furniture weekly with a vacuum cleaner and a soft brush attachment.

The leather is made from raw hides of the highest quality. This leather has a natural surface without top layers, on which hair pores and scars in the animal skin, e.g. from insect bites, are visible. This emphasizes the unique character and rustic charm of this exclusive leather. The natural surface structure of the leather is retained. It breathes and provides optimum seating comfort. The ravages of time, the effects of daylight and the use of the piece of furniture give the leather its individual character and a beautiful patina.

SEMIANILINE LEATHER

Clean your semi-aniline leather furniture weekly using a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment.

Covers made of semi-aniline leather have a light top layer of color pigments. This treatment makes the leather more resistant, easier to care for and less likely to wear out. The leather has the same natural appearance as aniline leather and is very comfortable to sit on.

LEATHER WITH COLOR PIGMENT LAYER

This refers to leather that has been additionally treated to make it particularly resistant. Pigmented leather is soft and comfortable and has only a few visible scars. It is easy to care for and a practical, robust material if treated correctly. For daily care, use a clean, soft cloth which you dip in lukewarm water and wring out vigorously.

WILD LEATHER

Consists of the innermost part of the rawhide. Suede has a pleasant pile that changes color and gives a beautiful shimmer depending on the incidence of light and use. Over time, suede develops a beautiful patina and signs of use become more visible. Clean your suede leather furniture weekly using a vacuum cleaner with a soft brush attachment.

Attention!

• Suede only needs to be vacuumed and should never come into contact with water or soap.

CLEANING OF LEATHER CUSHIONS

If your furniture has loose cushions, we recommend replacing them from time to time so that they are used evenly. Cushions with down filling should be shaken out at regular intervals (depending on use). This ensures that the down filling is evenly distributed inside. This helps the pillow to retain its shape in the long term.

REGULAR CARE

Wait at least approx. 6 months, before the new piece of furniture is washed with a soap flake solution. Once a year, you should treat the entire piece of furniture with a soap flake solution to prevent the leather from drying out. For thorough cleaning, we recommend a solution of hot, demineralized water and mild, natural soap flakes (leather soap) of good quality.

1. take 50 ml of soap flakes per liter of water. Stir the soap flakes into the hot water until they are completely dissolved.

2. when the soapy water has cooled to room temperature, rub the lather into the leather with a soft cloth. Only use the foam of the lye - the leather must not be soaked!

3. when the leather cover is dry, polish it with a soft cotton cloth.

Always ensure that the entire surface to avoid stain marks. The leather should be completely dry before the furniture is used again.

Attention!

• Do not use any cleaning agents or sharp objects when cleaning.
• Avoid placing leather furniture in direct sunlight, in extremely dry conditions and in the immediate vicinity of radiators, stoves or fireplaces.

You can buy soap for cleaning leather in our store.

Please always refer first to the manufacturer's care instructions, which may be supplied with your piece of furniture.

LINOLEUM

Linoleum is an organic material and therefore not well protected against large quantities of water or chemical substances.

DAILY CLEANING OF LINOLEUM

Clean linoleum using a well-wrung cloth dipped in water with a little detergent.

Attention!

• Protect the surface against hot and sharp objects with placemats and coasters.
• Remove liquids and other stains immediately.

REGULAR CARE

1. clean the surface with a mild detergent.

2. spread water and linoleum polish over the entire surface and rub in carefully.

3. then soak up the dirty water with a dry cloth and dry the surface.

4 Finally, apply linoleum polish again.

Please always refer first to the manufacturer's care instructions, which may be supplied with your piece of furniture.

PROPER CARE OF FURNITURE WITH PAPER CORD WEAVE

CHAIRS WITH PAPER CORD

Seating surfaces of chairs made from woven paper cord usually require no or only minimal maintenance, as the strong paper cord is durable for many years. The natural material is designed to acquire a beautiful patina over time.

Paper cord is a naturally cool, comfortable and durable material. It will last for many years and can be replaced or repaired by an experienced basket weaver if necessary.

CLEANING OF PAPER CORD

To freshen up the woven paper cord seat, wipe it with a well-wrung cloth that has previously been dipped in a clean, dry cloth. Neutral soapy water without dyes. However, you should not do this too often, as this wears out the paper cord.

You can find soap for cleaning paper in our store.

STAIN REMOVAL

The paper cord is often coated with a thin layer of wax to prevent staining. However, exposure to strongly colored foods and liquids, such as red wine or fruit juice, can discolor the paper cord.

If staining food gets onto the seat surface, it is best to wipe it off. immediately with a soft, well-wrung cloth. 

Make sure that the Do not rub liquid into the paper yarn, but gently dab the affected area. Use No detergent on the paper weave!

Like other seating furniture, the white, but also the natural-colored, woven seats made of paper cord can be strongly dyeing textiles are discolored, e.g. through new jeans. As the best possible protection for paper seating surfaces, we therefore recommend the use of Seat cushion. 

CARPETS MADE FROM PAPER STRING

Paper cord carpets are protected by a dirt-repellent treatment. This prevents dirt from being absorbed by the paper cord. This treatment makes it easier to care for these carpets. However, this does not mean that they never need to be cleaned. The protection lasts for 1 to 3 years, depending on the wear and tear, and can be renewed by a local specialist after thorough cleaning. 

DAILY CLEANING OF CARPETS MADE OF PAPER CORD

Vacuuming (without a brush) is usually sufficient for normal maintenance. Once a month, it is recommended that you also vacuum under the carpet. When cleaning, make sure that the surface of the paper cord is not damaged (do not use abrasive cleaners or brushes). To remove loose dirt, you can wipe the carpet with a damp soft cloth in the direction of weaving. Paper cord products must not be beaten or shaken out. If airing is necessary, the carpet should be rolled up loosely and placed vertically on a flat surface. 

STAIN REMOVAL ON PAPER CORD CARPETS

All stains should be removed immediately. React immediately and work carefully from the edge of the stain inwards to avoid increasing the size of the stain. 

• Dried-on stains, e.g. candle wax or protein-containing food such as meat, egg, etc., should be carefully removed with the blunt side of a knife or similar. The surface of the paper cord must not be damaged in the process. It should not be scrubbed or rubbed. 
• Liquids, e.g. juice, should be removed from the carpet immediately using household paper or a damp, absorbent white terry cloth. 

1. Moisten the cloth with cold water and squeeze out any excess water. 
2. The stains should then be dabbed off with a damp sponge or cloth. If necessary, a little dishwashing liquid or textile cleaner for natural fibers can be used to clean greasy stains. 
3. Rinse with a clean damp sponge or cloth. Do not rub the damp surface. 
4. Then dab the affected areas with a dry cloth and also examine the underside of the carpet. If the stain has migrated to the underside, repeat the stain removal process here too. 
5. Allow to dry.

REGULAR THOROUGH CLEANING

Avoid any unnecessary cleaning. Any cleaning accelerates the wear and tear on your carpet. The best cleaning effect is achieved with a steam cleaner. This method is gentle on the surface and the material. Please clean with the minimum amount of steam. Foam cleaning with a carpet cleaning machine is also possible.

Attention!

• Do not spin.
• Do not leave in water.
• Do not bleach.
• Do not wash/dry in a tumble dryer.
• Do not dry clean.

Please always refer first to the manufacturer's care instructions, which may be supplied with your piece of furniture.

CLEAN RATTAN FURNITURE PROPERLY

DAILY CLEANING

Use a well-wrung cloth for the daily cleaning of rattan furniture. Always rub the surface evenly with it. 

REGULAR CARE

Rattan furniture should be cleaned once or twice a year with a soapy solution of 0.4 dl of white soap flakes in 5 liters of lukewarm water. Wash both sides of the wickerwork. You can also use an atomizer. Use a sponge or cloth and rub the rattan wickerwork evenly dry with a dry cloth after cleaning.

Attention!

• Never use cleaning agents for rattan that are normally used for metal, such as pot cleaners.
• Wickerwork breaks easily if it dries out too much. It must therefore be kept soft and flexible with soapy water on a regular basis. 

We offer soap for cleaning rattan furniture in our store. 

Please always refer first to the manufacturer's care instructions, which may be supplied with your piece of furniture.

CLEANING AND CARE OF MARBLE, GRANITE AND OTHER NATURAL STONES

Granite, marble and limestone are natural materials (natural stone) with very different colors and structures. There may be sand holes, glass veins and cavities in the surface.

DAILY CLEANING

Natural granite can be maintained with soap flakes or Stone Wash. This creates a light protective film on the surface. If applied regularly, the surface of the natural stone will become increasingly resistant over time, but never 100 % stain-resistant. On polished surfaces, the treatment can create a silky matt surface over time.

CLEANING WITH SOAP FLAKES

1. Dissolve 2-3 tablespoons of fine soap flakes in 1 liter of hot water and stir until a foam forms.

2. apply the foam to the entire surface with a soft brush (for rough surfaces) or a lint-free cloth (for smooth surfaces).

3. Leave on for 5 minutes without it drying out, so that as much soap as possible is absorbed.

4 Finally, dry with a damp, clean, well-wrung and lint-free cloth.

Buy soap flakes here.

STAIN REMOVAL

• For red wine stains on rolled marble, moisten the stain with water and apply scouring powder. Then wait until the scouring powder has absorbed the stain. Repeat the process if necessary. Finally, the area can be cleaned with water and treated with Stone Wash. However, there is no guarantee that the stain will disappear completely.
• In the case of red wine stains on polished surfaces, treat the stain generously and carefully with a little chlorine and then with Stone Wash. Again, however, there is no guarantee that the stain will disappear completely.

Attention!

• Natural stone is very sensitive to acids. If, for example, lemon juice has got onto the surface, use Stone Wash specifically for cleaning. 

Please always refer first to the manufacturer's care instructions, which may be supplied with your piece of furniture.

CARPET CLEANING - OUR TIPS

WOVEN CARPETS

Woven carpets will last longer if you use a carpet pad or so-called backing. 

• Shaking and knocking should be avoided. Instead, use a vacuum cleaner and air the carpets.
• Vacuum your carpet regularly.
• Depending on the incidence of light and use, you should regularly turn the carpet on its own axis so that any marks are more regular.
• Stains should be removed immediately. Dry stains are best removed by scraping away the stain from the outside inwards and then vacuuming.
• Wet stains should be soaked up immediately using kitchen roll. (Never scrub a stain, as this will only work it in deeper and could damage the fibers). Then use a sponge or a cloth dipped in lukewarm water to dampen the stain. Then soak up the water with a dry cloth and repeat the process until the stain is gone. Be careful not to use too much water, otherwise the carpet may lose its shape. If the stains are from oil or grease, a pH-neutral, bleach-free cleaner can be used.
• We recommend regular professional cleaning using a so-called extraction method.

TUFTED CARPETS

• In the beginning, the carpet will regularly lose fibers due to the production process. This will decrease over time.
• Tufted carpets can be turned over and beaten on the reverse side so that the dirt falls out and can then be vacuumed up.
• Never vacuum a tufted carpet with a rotating vacuum cleaner head.
• To maintain the appearance of a high-pile carpet, comb it regularly with a coarse comb or a small plastic rake.

A carpet that is cared for will last for years. Here you will find instructions in English from our Swedish Kasthall collection on how to care for your rug:

STAIN REMOVAL
CARE OF WOVEN CARPETS
CARE OF TUFTED CARPETS

Visit our page with Paper cord care tips for tips on how to handle carpets made of paper cord. Our expert provides further tips on what to think about when buying a rug.

Please always refer first to the manufacturer's care instructions, which may be supplied with your piece of furniture.

CARE AND CLEAN TEXTILE UPHOLSTERED FURNITURE

Depending on the material, textile covers are more or less susceptible to light or stains. Therefore, avoid direct sunlight and always remove stains immediately.

REGULAR CARE AND CLEANING

Regular cleaning and care of upholstered furniture with seat covers is important to maintain the appearance of the covers and extend their service life. By Dust and dirt the textile covers can become discolored and more worn over time. This also leads to a poorer indoor climate. We recommend cleaning upholstered furniture frequently with a vacuum cleaner (at half suction power if necessary). at least once a week.

If your piece of furniture loose cushions has, we recommend that you use it every now and then exchange ideas with each other, so that they are used evenly. Cushion with Down filling should be replaced at regular intervals (depending on use) shaken out be placed inside. This ensures that the down filling is evenly distributed inside. This helps the pillow to retain its shape in the long term.

STAIN REMOVAL

If any stains get onto the textile covers, you should remove immediately.

• Stains from viscous or solid substances (e.g. candle wax or chewing gum) should first be scraped off the fabric with a blunt knife or spatula. 
• Vacuum dried stains with a vacuum cleaner first to remove loose material.
• Spilled liquids should first be wiped up with a clean, absorbent cloth before treating the stain further.
• Grease stains should first be carefully dabbed with a sponge or a clean, lint-free cloth that you have previously dipped in warm water and wrung out. Always work from the outer edge towards the center of the stain. The next step is to treat the stain with a suitable stain remover.

Attention!

• We always recommend that you first apply the selected cleaning agents to the textile cover in an invisible place. try out, before applying it to the stain.
• Do not press the cleaning agent too hard otherwise the top layer of fabric may be rubbed off or the foam backing damaged. 
• To avoid discoloration and matting of the microfibres in the textile cover, we recommend drying it with a hair dryer after cleaning. 
• It is important that the fabric is completely dry before the furniture is used again.
• Be extremely Be careful when using solvents, as these can attack the upholstery material under the cover. 
• In addition, do not use undiluted cleaning agents, bleach, ammonia or soap intended for hard surfaces on the textile covers.

Find out more: Kvadrat care instructions for upholstery and curtain fabrics